Villa de Leyva Road Trip

Tuesday-Wednesday-Thursday, May 15-16-17

Villa de Leyva c/Eduardo Chaves

Tuesday, May 15

Rain! Rain! Rain! We left Bogotá at 11AM in the pouring rain. Note: Eduardo does not speak more than a few words of English, so we communicated puro en español. Value added: Ned does not have to drive Andean roads in the rain. 

Eduardo took us the scenic route, which would have been spectacular had it not been raining… Eduardo explained that there are basically six levels social-economic strata. We saw evidence of much wealth (high rise apartments/condos in gated communities). We also saw evidence of extreme poverty (favelas spilling down the hillsides alongside garbage). Once in the countryside, we saw lots and lots and lots of potatoes! Other major crops are onions and corn, but this must be potato season. We drove up-up-up high into the Eastern Range of the Colombian Andes (la cordillera oriental), arriving Villa de Leyva at 2:45PM (still raining). 

We checked in to the Hotel Casa Cantabria - 2 blocks from Plaza Principal, clean, small, inexpensive.

Notes: Villa de Leyva has a plethora of small cafes, most of which serve pizza. It boasts the largest plaza principal in Colombia (3.5 acres of wasted real estate). There is nothing except one not-in-use well smack-dab in the middle. That’s it! 

Wednesday, May 16

After rooftop breakfast we hit the road. 

Eduardo Chavez and the clean car! 

Casa de Terra Cota. (Entrada: COP $10,000)  

Kitchen

It is just outside Villa de Leyva. Built by architect Octavio Mendoza, it is a 5400 square foot home constructed by hand entirely of clay baked in the sun. It amounts to what could redefine “rather large piece of pottery”! Fascinated, I took a gazillion photos + it is quite photogenic.

Convento del Santo Ecce Homo. (Entrada COP $6000) This is 8 km NW of Villa de Leyva. It was founded by Dominican monks (Frailes Dominicanos) in 1622. To get there we went through the Valle de los Dinosaurios (Valley of the Dinosaurs). Many important paleontologic discoveries have been made here. The red rock is dotted with short pines, a la Sedona, Arizona.

Ráquira. Is a town that attracts many tourists. It is 28 km from Villa de Leyva. Ráquira means “city of clay pots” in the Chibcha language of the indigenous Muisca people. It is the capital of Colombian ceramics. 80% of the people harvest the red soil and make red terra cota ceramics. 

Convento Monasterio de la Candelaria. (Entrada: COP $8000) Here we scored a knowledgeable guide (all others had been self-guided, guess-as-you-go). Nanci spoke slow and articulate Spanish. I was able to understand at least 90% of everything (+ context helped).

This Augustinian convent was first established in 1588, making it the first Augustinian convent in the Americas. It is dedicated to the Virgin of Candelaria.

The Virgin de Candelaria first appeared to sailors in the Canary Islands (in Spain). There was fire all around her (hence “candel-aria”). She became the patron saint for sailors and the fire surrounding the vision led to lighthouses (I think…).

Reloj Borracho (Drunken Clock)

Museo de Luís Alerto Acuña. (Entrada: COP $6000) This is on the main plaza back in Villa de Leyva. Master painter and sculptor, he lived in Villa de Leyva. The museum was his private home and has been restored to display both his art, as well as his art collection. 

Museo de Chocolate. This is not really a museum. Rather, it is a eatery and gift shop – all matter of things chocolate. 

El Rincón Gourmet de la Villa. After some intentional exploration, we found a lovely restaurant that was not a pizzeriaor empanaderia. Owners Jorge Eljaiek and Carolina Martinez moved from Bogotá four years ago. She was in the banking-finance business, and he was a dentist. He also happens to be an excellent pianist! WOW! WOW! WOW! 

We have traveled the world and have had some amazing dining experiences. The dinner at El Rincon Gourmet de la Villa Piano Bar was one of the best ever (certainly top 10). 

Carolina, Jorge and Staff